Marion Street Eatery
Address: 393 Marion Street (In the Marion Hotel)
Phone Number: 204-233-2843
Neighbourhood: St. Boniface
There's something up in St. Boniface, Winnipeg's French Quarter. In the past few years, a vibrant new food scene has been emerging.
Café Postal moved in on Provencher, as did Chocolatier Constance Popp. Promenade Café has undergone a bright and beautiful renovation. The menu and the overall food theme has also been updated. Cocoabeans Bakeshop also opened on Taché Avenue in the past two years.
We can now add Marion Street Eatery to that list. Located inside the Marion Hotel, the breakfast and lunch spot replaces a Polish restaurant which recently closed after 18 years.
A major renovation (basically a gutting) was needed to update the space. Large, south-facing windows stream light into a 50-plus seat dining room. A long wooden bar and the chalkboard above are the focal point. Julia Child's quote, 'People who love to eat are always the best people,' is artfully written in chalk.
That quote certainly captures the mood and spirit within. Owner Laneil Smith greets her guests as they walk in. She explains the food philosophy. Think of it as comfort food with an upgrade. Housemade is also chef/owner Melissa Hryb's mantra.
Instead of a pork sandwich, Marion Street Eatery serves The Cuban: a roast pork with grilled maple sugar ham, spicy grained Dijon, Gruyere and pickles on grilled Italian bread.
Chilli, chicken pie, meatloaf and mac & cheese also get extra care and love. Bison chip comes with bannock and Havarti, for example, and mac & cheese is topped with bacon, broccoli and a crunchy pretzel coating.
Three burgers, salads and soups are also on the menu. Breakfast is loaded with classics and a few with slight twists.
The aforementioned Cuban sandwich hit the mark. The pork was tender and delicious. The ham added a touch of smoky sweetness. Crunch came via the pickle and smooth heat rolled in with a smear of Dijon.
The spicy chicken grill was a hot mess, but in a good way. It was stuffed with roasted diced chicken in Sriracha sauce. Thick cut bacon added extra heft. Tomatoes and lettuce, roasted garlic aioli and chilli lime peanut wrapped up this flavourful modern sandwich.
Marion Street Eatery is open daily at 7 a.m.; and closes at 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday; 2 p.m. on Sunday; and 8 p.m. every other day.
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